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By Auguste Escoffier

If the paintings of Cookery in all its branches weren't under-
going a means of evolution, and if its canons might be once
and for ever fastened, as are these of sure clinical operations
and mathematical systems, the current paintings could have no
raison d'etre; inasmuch as there exist already a number of excellent
culinary text-books within the English language. yet everything
is so risky in those occasions of development at any price, and social
customs and techniques of lifestyles modify so swiftly, few years
now suffice to alter thoroughly the face of usages which at
their inception bade reasonable to survive the age — so enthusiastically
were they welcomed through the public.

In regard to the traditions of the festal board, it truly is but
twenty years in the past because the ancestral English customs begun to
make approach sooner than the more moderen tools, and we needs to glance to the
great impetus given to traveling by way of steam traction and naviga-
tion, that allows you to account for the slow yet unquestionable

In the wake of the call for got here the availability. Palatial hotels
were outfitted, luxurious eating places have been opened, either one of which
offered their clients luxuries undreamt of theretofore in such

Modern society shriveled the behavior of engaging of light
suppers in those locations, after the theatres of the Metropolis
had closed; and the well-to-do started to flock to them on
Sundays, on the way to supply their servants the necessary weekly
rest. And, considering eating places let of staring at and of being
observed, considering they're eminently tailored to the showing of
magnificent attire, it was once now not lengthy ahead of they entered into
the lifetime of Fortune's favourites.

But those new-fangled behavior needed to be met through novel methods
of Cookery — ^better tailored to the actual surroundings in
which they have been to be practised. The admirable productions
popularised by way of the outdated Masters of the Culinary paintings of the pre-


ceding Century didn't develop into the sunshine and extra frivolous
atmosphere of eating places ; have been, in truth, ill-suited to the brisk
waiters, and their buyers who in basic terms had eyes for one another.

The pompous splendour of these bygone dinners, served in
the majestic dining-halls of Manors and Palaces, by way of liveried
footmen, was once half and parcel of the etiquette of Courts and
lordly mansions.

It is eminently suited for kingdom dinners, that are in sooth
veritable ceremonies, owning their ritual, traditions, and —
one may well even say — their excessive monks ; however it is a trifling hin-
drance to the fashionable, quick carrier. The advanced and
sometimes heavy menus will be unwelcome to the hyper-
critical appetites so universal these days; for that reason the necessity of a
radical switch not just within the culinary arrangements themselves,
but within the preparations of the menus, and the service.

Circumstances ordained that I can be one of many movers
in this revolution, and i may still deal with the kitchens of
two institutions that have performed so much to carry it about.
I for that reason enterprise to consider ebook containing a record
of the entire alterations that have come into being in kitchen paintings —
changes whereof i'm in a superb half author^may have some
chance of an exceptional reception by the hands of the general public, i.e.

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Cover the bain-marie, or slightly butter the top to avoid the formation of a skin. This sauce is the base of all the smaller brown sauces. fection 24— LENTEN ESPAGNOLE Practical men are not agreed as to the need of Lenten Espagnole. The ordinary Espagnole being really a neutral sauce in flavour, it is quite simple to give it the necessary flavour by the addition of the required quantity of fish fumet. It is only, therefore, when one wishes to conform with the demands of a genuine Lent sauce that a fish Espagnole is needed.

Stock, the juice of the oranges and the lemon and the Julienne of rinds, as for the braised-ducklings sauce indicated above. THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 25 32— SAUCE BORDELAISE Put into a vegetable-pan two oz. of very finely minced good red wine, a pinch of mignonette pepper, and bits of thyme and bay. Reduce the wine by three-quarters, and add one-half pint of half-glaze. Keep the sauce simmering for half an hour; despumate it from time to time, and strain it through linen or a sieve. When dishing it up, finish it with two tablespoonfuls of dissolved meat glaze, a few drops of lemon-juice, and four oz.

Cubes. cubes. sprig of pepper. of raw tomatoes or quarts of same, mashed. 2 quarts of white stock. 10 thyme. lbs. 4 5 oz. of flour. — Preparation. Fry the pork with the butter in a tall, thickbottomed saucepan. When the pork is nearly melted, add the and aromatics. Cook and stir the vegetables, then add the flour, which should be allowed to cook until it begins to brown. Now put in the tomatoes and white stock, carrots, onions, mix the whole well, and set to boil on an open fire. At this point add the seasoning and a crushed clove of garlic, cover the saucepan, and place in a moderate oven, where it may cook At the end of this time the sauce for one and one-half hours.

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